Why Gjirokaster Albania Should Be On Your List

Discover the fascinating (and steep streets) of Gjirokaster Albania

After spending more than a week exploring the Albanian Riviera, it was finally time to head inland to the mountains. Driving along the coast, the distant peaks were already fascinating, but now, I was eager to experience them up close.

While the Albanian Riviera is home to stunning beaches, culturally, it feels somewhat lacking—aside from a few incredible mountain villages like Dhermi and Vuno and, of course, the Himare Castle. I was really looking forward to seeing more of Albania’s history and heritage, and Gjirokaster was exactly the place for that.

Stepping into Gjirokaster felt like traveling back in time—except for the cars and the many tourists. Compared to the Riviera, this place was a whole different world.

With limited time, we could only spend one night in Gjirokaster. But as soon as we dropped our bags at the guesthouse, stepped onto the balcony, and took in the breathtaking view, I knew one thing for sure—we had made a mistake. This place deserved more than just one night.

Even though we didn’t have the luxury of slow travel, we managed to see a lot in a short time. In this guide, I’ll show you exactly why Gjirokaster needs to be on your itinerary.

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Why Is Gjirokaster Famous?

Gjirokaster is famous because every tourist visiting Albania visits it, and every travel blog writes about it. Jokes aside, it’s easy to see why so many people add it to their itinerary.

Today, Gjirokaster is renowned for its well-preserved Ottoman architecture. Often referred to as the ‘Stone City’, it is also known as the ‘Silver City’—a name inspired by the limestone roofs that once shimmered under the sunlight.

The tall, fortress-like houses stacked against the hills and the breathtaking mountain backdrop create a truly unforgettable sight.

A bit of history

While it is today thriving due to its many tourists, it played an important role in the past. Gjirokaster particularly flourished during the Ottoman era in the 15th century. It was the administrative center for a province that covered what is now central and southern Albania. It also became a major trading hub, which positively impacted the economy and culture.

At the beginning of the 19th century, wealthy families constructed the city’s iconic large traditional houses, creating the unique display we see today.

After the Ottoman era, Gjirokaster was mainly involved in the communist period as it was the birthplace of Enver Hoxha, the country’s former dictator.

Gjirokaster became a symbol, and the Cold War Tunnel, which can be visited, reflects the paranoia and control of Hoxha’s regime.

UNESCO World Heritage Site

In 2005, Gjirokaster was appointed a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its Ottoman-era architecture, stone-roofed houses, cobbled streets, and traditional market, which preserve the mix of Greek, Roman, and Ottoman civilizations.

I found a fascinating article about preserving Gjirokaster’s historic homes, where the author recalls his first visit. He witnessed the gradual decay of these old mansions despite the Albanian government investing $1 million to restore and conserve the castle and 50 of the 400 historic houses. Luckily, he is optimistic about the future. Especially now that Gjirokaster’s cultural heritage is recognized.

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Is Gjirokaster Worth Visiting?

Gjirokaster Albania is absolutely worth visiting, as it is a very diverse destination. It is ideal for those who love history, adventure, or ancient old-town aesthetics.

Gjirokaster is a must-visit for:

• It’s a stunning city with breathtaking views over the Drino Valley.
• You get a fascinating glimpse into Albania’s turbulent communist past.
• This is the place to try authentic Albanian cuisine—think slow-cooked lamb, fresh local produce, and homemade ice cream.
• It’s far more affordable than the Albanian Riviera, confirming that Albania is one of the few affordable destinations in Europe.
• Gjirokaster has a unique charm that makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

Many visitors from Ksamil, Saranda, and even Corfu make a day trip to Gjirokaster. And while you can see a lot in a day, to be honest—this city deserves more. At least one night, ideally two or more, to really soak in the atmosphere, wander the old streets, and enjoy those long, lazy meals with a view.

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How Many Days Do You Need in Gjirokaster?

For our trip to Albania, we initially focused on the Albanian Riviera and had only planned a day trip from Saranda to Gjirokaster. With summer temperatures soaring, the idea of trekking through the city’s steep cobbled streets under the blazing sun didn’t seem too appealing at first. 

Luckily, at the last moment, we decided to add The Blue Eye and Gjirokaster to our itinerary. And we couldn’t be happier that we did! Otherwise, we would have missed out on an incredible mountain road trip, the town’s stunning setting, and, of course, the delicious food.

So, how many days do you need in Gjirokaster, Albania?

Well, that depends on your interests and your time in Albania. Here’s what I’d recommend:

Solo travelers and couples will fully appreciate the town’s breathtaking setting, fascinating museums, and charming restaurants tucked away in its cobbled streets.

But what about families with kids who thrive on water-based adventures? Well… let’s just say convincing your little one to tackle Gjirokaster’s steep hills for a whole day is challenging. We barely managed two! If you have kids who link vacation with only beach time, be prepared to pull out your best persuasion tactics—or a promise of another ice cream.

But this is to get an idea on how to spend your time in Gjirokaster:

1 day – Perfect for a day trip from Saranda, Ksamil, or Tirana. Even those coming from Corfu could make it work (but seriously, stay at least one night!). In one day, you can visit the bazaar, castle, and Cold War Tunnel and enjoy an authentic Albanian meal.

2 Days – Ideal if you’re doing a 7-day Albania road trip or visiting in the busy summer months. Staying overnight in a guesthouse gives you extra time to visit the highlights, enjoy the bazaar before the day-trippers arrive or leave, and take a scenic walk to Ali Pasha Bridge in the late afternoon.

3+ Days – The perfect amount of time to go beyond the usual sights. Visit nearby villages, go on scenic hikes, and discover the real hidden gems that most travelers miss.

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Things to Do in Gjirokaster Albania

The mix of things to do in Gjirokaster makes it a wonderful town to visit. There is always something for any one.

As you wander through its cobbled streets, don’t forget to pause every now and then and look back—sometimes the most beautiful sights are the ones we unknowingly walk past.

1. Browse at the Gjirokaster Bazaar

We arrived in Gjirokaster late in the morning, and the sun was already roasting the cobbled streets. Don’t expect much shade here. We were there in July, in the middle of summer, and we were already sweating before even tackling the town’s notorious steep streets.

Now, let’s talk about these streets. They are no joke. If like us, you’ve been lounging on a beach for weeks and getting around on a motor scooter, prepare for a workout. We were about to earn our lunch.

With that in mind, we headed straight for Qafa e Pazarit Bazaar, eager to wander through its charming streets—and, let’s be honest, to find some good food. As always, we got distracted, took a few wrong turns, and somehow ended up at the first cake shop in town, located near the old mosque. Not that we were complaining.

The best way to experience the bazaar is to stroll through its stone-paved streets and soak in the historic charm. Originally established in the 17th century, this market was a bustling trade hub during the Ottoman era.

Sadly, a fire destroyed the original bazaar. It was rebuilt in the 20th century, incorporating some original elements while modernizing the layout. The newer version is more organized and structured but still holds that old charm.

Thanks to increased tourism, the bazaar has received a new boost. Renovated buildings, more shops and restaurants continue to pop up every year. This will hopefully help preserve this unique cultural site while supporting local businesses.

Like any (tourist) bazaar, you will find shops selling handmade crafts, antiques, and the usual souvenirs.

For a unique insight into the bazaar, consider joining a free walking tour.

2. Discover Gjirokaster’s Architecture

After an incredible lunch at Corner of Bazaar (more on that later), our son was roasted and begged to head back to the guesthouse to cool down.

Halfway up the hike back, we decided to split up. While Matt took our son to recharge, I made my way to Zekate House, one of the most well-preserved Ottoman houses in Gjirokaster. There are several grand Ottoman-era mansions in the city, but with limited time—and also because it was the closest to our route—I chose to explore Zekate House.

Zekate House

The house was built between 1811 and 1812 by Beqir Zeko, an local Albanian general administrator in Ali Pasha’s government. It’s an impressive symbol of the city’s wealthy elite. Unlike the typical Albanian homes of that era, this three-story mansion was designed to showcase power, status, and hospitality.

You can walk through the house and visit several well-maintained rooms with beautiful wooden ceilings, large windows, and Albanian furniture. The most elegant room is the guest room. It was obviously designed to impress visitors.

Visitors can wander through multiple rooms, showcasing traditional Albanian furniture and detailed Ottoman-era craftsmanship. Signs give a thorough description of each room.

Be prepared for a bit of a hike to get there, but the higher you go, the more stunning the views become. And once you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful balcony offering panoramic views. If hiking isn’t your thing, no worries—there’s parking available for an easier way up.

Opening Hours: April-October  07:00-20:00 and November-March 08:00-18:00
Price: 200 lek/person (2 Euro)

If you have more time, other houses you might want to visit are:

Skenduli House: One of the best-preserved Ottoman houses, featuring original furniture, secret escape doors, and a traditional Albanian guest room.

Ismail Kadare’s House: The childhood home of Albania’s most renowned writer, Ismail Kadare, has been transformed into a museum.

Ethnographic Museum: Located in the former (rebuilt) home of Enver Hoxha, this museum offers a glimpse into traditional Albanian life. Exhibits include handwoven textiles, antique furniture, and household items used by families in Gjirokaster for centuries.

3. Hike to Ali Pasha Bridge

After returning to our guesthouse, ready to escape the sizzling sun and with legs screaming for a massage, I was ready to collapse. Meanwhile, Matt and our son were well-rested and eager for the next adventure—tracking down Ali Pasha’s Bridge.

This ancient Ottoman aqueduct was built in the early 19th century as part of the water supply system for Ali Pasha Tepelena’s fortress.

While lying down sounded tempting, I knew this hike would be worth it. Armed with snacks, water, and a Google Maps route that seemed straightforward, we set off.

It looked close to our guesthouse, but, as with most old towns and tiny roads, we probably took the longest route possible. And we weren’t alone—on the way back, we passed a group of tired travelers, their worried faces asking the universal question: Are we even going the right way?

Trail to the Aquaduct

Right path or not, the views were spectacular. The valley stretched endlessly, with Gjirokaster Castle perched high above and dramatic mountain ranges created the perfect picture.

Eventually, we found clear signs directing us to the right trail. Standing at the edge of the valley, we spotted the bridge in the distance. At first, we weren’t sure if we could actually reach it—until we saw a group of goats casually nearby on the other side.

If they can do it, so can we, right?

After a bit of stumbling downhill, we finally spotted a narrow trail leading directly to the bridge. Crossing it was pretty terrifying—especially for me, considering my fear of heights. But stepping onto it was like the cherry on top of a great adventure.

The way back was thankfully all downhill, though we managed to get lost again—but hey, that’s part of the fun, right? If you plan on doing this in the summer, bring plenty of water. Even in the late afternoon, it was hot, but with the sun dipping lower, the valley looked absolutely stunning.

4. Walk Through the Cold War Tunnel

Matt planned to visit the Cold War Tunnel early in the morning. In hindsight, it would have been more efficient to see it when we were at the Bazaar on our first day. The museum is at Topulli Square, right at the beginning of the Old Bazaar.

Matt joined an early tour (it is highly recommended to go before the groups get bigger), which took 30 minutes. The guide made the whole visit more intriguing by giving details about the construction, hidden entrances, and their purposes.

The Cold War Tunnel, built in the 1970s, is one of the eeriest and most fascinating remnants of Albania’s communist past. This underground bunker was designed as a nuclear shelter in case of foreign attacks.

The damp air and flickering lights make the whole experience almost uncomfortable as you walk through. It is easy to imagine the government officials and military personnel who once stood in these rooms, preparing for a disaster that never happened.

Opening hours: April-October  09:00-18:00 and November-March 08:00-14:00
Price :200 lek/person (2 Euro)

5. Visit Gjirokaster Castle

From the moment we drove into Gjirokaster, the castle was calling us. You can see it from almost anywhere in town, standing proudly on the hilltop, watching over everything below. That’s no surprise—Gjirokaster was built around it. One sign inside the castle even described it as the mother, while her children were the town that slowly grew around it.

Originally constructed in the 12th century, the castle was later expanded by the Ottomans in the 15th and 19th centuries. It has played a crucial role throughout history as a fortress, prison, and military base.

We arrived early, before the day-trippers from other cities flooded in. There are various sections to explore—some showcasing Ottoman and communist-era armories, others left unrestored but with signs detailing their past uses, such as an old bakery.

We found ourselves wandering through the whole citadel, checking one room after another. Some had proper stairs; others had steep, narrow passages where we couldn’t help but wonder if we had accidentally entered a restricted area.

The highlight of our visit was climbing to the top of the castle, reaching a vast open square where the clock tower stands. From here, we had amazing views of the Drino Valley, the town, and the distant mountains.

Gjirokaster Museum

If you dive deeper into Gjirokaster’s history, you’ll quickly learn about the dark and difficult times Albanians endured under the rule of dictators King Zog and Enver Hoxha. Their regimes left a lasting impact on the country, shaping its modern history.

To better understand Albania’s troubled past, visit the National Arms Museum and the former prison located within Gjirokaster Castle. These exhibits provide insight into the country’s struggle for freedom and the harsh realities of its political history. Admission is an additional 200 LEK.

Opening Hours: Open from April to September 09:00 to 19:00, October to March 09:00 to 17:00
Price: 400 lek/person (4 Euro)

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Where to Eat in Gjirokaster

When it comes to food, you won’t go hungry in Gjirokaster. There are plenty of options, though let’s be real—not all of them serve authentic Albanian cuisine. Some places cater primarily to tourists, meaning you might end up with something that fills the stomach but doesn’t quite hit the soul. But among them, there are a few gems, at least for us less knowledgeable tourists.

Personally, we felt like we had stumbled upon a real great place. At the very least, we can confidently say that it was the best meal we had in Albania—okay, our food experience mainly had been limited to the Albanian Riviera’s usual mix of grilled vegetables, pizza, and pasta. But this? This was something else entirely.

Lunch

At the end of the bazaar, tucked into a cozy corner, we found Corner of Bazaar—yes, the name is very literal. A couple of enthusiastic staff members waved us in. Though we usually avoid places that pressure us to sit down, it felt warm and welcoming this time—plus, we were starving.

For some reason, I didn’t take photos, which is a shame, because once inside, we descended a small staircase to a charming terrace with tables overlooking the mountains. It was one of those unexpected surprises that proves sometimes the best experiences come when you ditch the plan and just go with the flow.

The food and service were fantastic, and we’d highly recommend it. One thing to note: they close during winter, so if you’re visiting in the off season, double-check if they’re open!

Dinner

For dinner, exhaustion got the better of us, and we opted for Restorant La Famiglia, conveniently located just above the streets of the bazaar. We avoided the crowds and yet another hill, which, at this point, was a major win. Surprisingly, the food was delicious, and the owner’s son was incredibly friendly, adding to the experience.

We dined with a great view of the mosque’s minaret, enjoying a peaceful meal away from the tourist hustle—even though the restaurant was probably still touristy. But hey, sometimes it’s nice to sit back, relax, and enjoy good food without overthinking it.

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Where to Stay in Gjirokaster Albania

One thing was certain—if we were staying in Gjirokaster, it had to be in a traditional house. And we’re so glad we did! Located in one of the many little streets, we got to experience life behind those colorful old doors.

Walking through the bold red door, we entered a beautiful green courtyard, lush with plants, and a terrace overlooking the city—a hidden oasis right in the middle of town.

The owner didn’t speak a word of English, but that didn’t stop him from being incredibly welcoming. He clearly had experience hosting guests and made sure we understood everything (plus, his daughter sent us all the practical details in English via WhatsApp—modern problems, modern solutions!).

While staying in the old town streets is charming and offers amazing views, it’s not for everyone. If you’re not a fan of steep hills in the sun (our son definitely wasn’t), or if the idea of navigating narrow streets for parking sends shivers down your spine (that would be me), then consider that before booking your accommodation.

When searching for accommodation in Gjirokaster, you can’t really go wrong. Everything is charming and absolutely great value for money. You can stay somewhere pretty luxurious yet in traditional style for just USD80 to USD100 per night.

Recommended places to stay:

Stone Rooms 1850 – A charming stay in a traditional house with stunning town views. The stone-walled rooms are cozy and full of character, offering a blend of history and comfort. A delicious breakfast and friendly hosts complete the experience.

Hotel SS KEKEZI – Sitting at one of the highest viewpoints in Gjirokaster, this hotel boasts beautiful rooms and great hospitality. The rooftop views are spectacular, breakfast is excellent, and the staff ensures you make the most of your visit. Nearby bars can cause some noise at night.

Hotel Gjirokaster – A family-run gem in the heart of the bazaar, offering spacious rooms, warm hospitality, and homemade breakfasts. The ideal location makes exploring easy, and free parking and a pool make it a great choice for longer stays.

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Best Time to Visit Gjirokaster

Spring & Fall: The Perfect Time

If you want the perfect balance of pleasant weather, fewer crowds, and picturesque views, spring (April–June) and fall (September–November) are the best times to visit Gjirokaster. The temperatures are ideal for tackling the steep, cobbled streets without feeling like you’re about to pass out.

• Spring brings blooming flowers, giving the city an extra charm.
• The surrounding mountains are gold and red during the fall, creating even more breathtaking views.
• The bazaar is lively but not overcrowded, so you can enjoy browsing local crafts without being jostled by hordes of tourists.

Summer: Hot but Bustling

Summer (July–August) is the peak season so expect crowds and a buzzing atmosphere. Also be prepared—it gets hot. Gjirokaster’s stone streets and lack of shade mean you will want to sit down at café for a cold drink every 30 minutes or so.

• Expect crowds, especially at the castle and the bazaar.
• If you visit in summer, mornings and evenings are the best times to explore, while afternoons are best spent relaxing in a shady spot with ice cream.
• On the plus side, summer is festival season. If you’re lucky, you might catch the National Folklore Festival (next one in 2028), a once-in-a-lifetime cultural experience.

Gjirokaster in Winter: Quiet and Charming

If you want to experience Gjirokaster without the crowds, winter (December–February) is an enjoyable time to visit. Temperatures can drop significantly; sometimes, you’ll even see snow on the rooftops.

• Tourist numbers are low, so you’ll mostly have the streets and attractions to yourself.
• Some restaurants and guesthouses may close for the season, but the cozy, local atmosphere makes up for it.
• Perfect for history lovers who want to soak up the town’s character without distractions.

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How to Get to Gjirokaster Albania

Getting to Gjirokaster is easier than you might think, whether you’re coming from within Albania or from neighboring Greece. Not only was our visit to Gjirokaster an incredible experience, but the road trip on our motor scooter from Saranda made it even more unforgettable.

You have two options: take the same route back or, if you look at the map, you’ll notice a loop. Take the loop! It makes for an epic road trip with breathtaking mountain landscapes along the way.

The roads are in great condition, with smooth asphalt, making the ride enjoyable. The SH4 highway towards Gjirokaster is efficient but can be a bit dull due to the heavy truck traffic. Still, the well-maintained roads make the journey hassle-free and enjoyable.

Here’s other ways you can reach this historic town:

Tirana to Gjirokaster

• The fastest and most flexible option is to rent a car. The drive takes around 3 hours via SH4, a well-maintained highway with scenic mountain views along the way.
• If you prefer public transport, buses and minibuses run frequently from Tirana’s Regional Bus Terminal. Expect the journey to take around 3.5–4 hours, depending on traffic and stops along the way.
• For an quicker option there are private transfers and tours from Tirana to Gjirokaster.

Saranda to Gjirokaster

• If you are arriving from Saranda, you will reach Gjirokaster in about 1 hour. Driving from Saranda is the easiest and fastest way to reach Gjirokaster, taking about 1 hour. The SH78 road is in good condition, with beautiful countryside views.
• Buses and minibuses depart from Saranda’s central bus station. The ride takes about 1.5 hours, depending on traffic. Plan to be 2 hours before departure during the summer.

Ioannina (Greece) to Gjirokaster

• There is a direct bus from Ioannina (Greece) to Gjirokaster, making it a convenient cross-border option.
• The journey takes approximately 1.5–2 hours, including time for border control. You can also choose to take the bus till the Albanian boarder, and from there grab a taxi. You will see them waiting for you to take you the last 30km to Gjirokaster. 
• If you’re driving from Greece, the Kakavija border crossing is the main entry point, and the roads leading to Gjirokaster are in good condition.

Corfu (Greece) to Gjirokaster

• If you’re visiting from Corfu, take a ferry to Saranda, which runs several times a day and takes about 30 minutes.
• From Saranda, follow the routes above to reach Gjirokaster by car or bus.

Tips Once In Gjirokaster

If you plan to rent a car, be aware that mountain roads can be winding, so drive cautiously.

Gjirokaster is built on a steep hill, which means tiny, narrow, cobbled roads that feel like a maze of stacked houses. If you’re driving, get ready for some serious hill starts! Honestly, I was beyond relieved that we rented a motor scooter—I cranked it to full power, hoping not to lose momentum.

When we finally made it up, the parking situation was a breeze, unlike the poor souls in cars who had to be escorted by the parking guy running up the hills, showing where they exactly (not an inch to the left or right!) had to park. I can drive, sure—but dealing with that? I’d be sweating like a pig in a sauna.

If you’re used to wide, flat roads (hello, Netherlands!), and the thought of navigating Gjirokaster’s town centre terrifies you, there’s a solution. Park just outside town—the main road looping around the city is newly paved, even buses make it through, so you can too. From there, walk to your accommodation or book a place near a wide street in town. You will find there are many parking spaces.

If you plan to travel by bus, booking bus tickets in advance isn’t usually necessary unless you are travelling during the peak summer months.

Buses won’t take you directly into the old town, so be ready to walk uphill once you arrive. If that sounds too much effort, taxis are always waiting to give you a lift (for a price, of course!).

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Final Thoughts About Gjirokaster Albania

What can I say? Gjirokaster was easily one of the highlights of our trip—a place that left us eager to explore more of Albania’s mountains and historic towns. The dramatic setting, the maze-like streets, and the hike down to the Ali Pasha Bridge were unforgettable. And somehow, we left feeling like there’s still so much more to uncover.

If you’re planning your itinerary, don’t just rush through Gjirokaster—give it at least three days to soak up its history, explore its surroundings, and venture off the beaten path. And if you’re feeling adventurous, why not visit a town that isn’t on every travel blog’s list? Albania is full of hidden gems, and we’re certain you’ll discover even more unforgettable surprises along the way!

Albania, we will return one day soon. This time outside the summer months. Continue reading how to make the most of your Albania travels.